Thursday, February 10, 2011

Indonesia’s Gossip Culture


I love living here in Indonesia, experiencing the Indonesia way of life and basically learning something new about myself every day. But there are definitely negatives. You leave all your long term friends behind in Australia or elsewhere in the world and are forced to make new friends – not a bad thing in itself. But you also become subject to Indonesia’s gossip culture. Indonesia is all about gossip. Everyone in the neighborhood knows your life story. Even if you have only told you Ibu Kost or one or two close friends something it will get out – that’s just life here.

And in many senses this is not a negative thing. It made it particularly easy when I first got here and told someone my story because I didn’t have to explain it over and over to everyone. This gossip is particularly highlighted amongst the pembantu’s and Ibu’s. The go to the market or the local street seller every morning to buy their food supplies for the day and exchange stories of the previous day. In this sense the gossip culture can be seen as a sign of bonding in your neighborhood, however, it’s not until recently I have seen the adverse effects of this gossip culture myself.

Having become a pawn in a friends gossiping game, I have recently been informed some of the things that have been said about me behind my back by someone I would have considered a friend. Thus, this revealed the negative side of the gossiping culture to me. Like anywhere in the world gossiping paves the path to backstabbing, deceit and bullying. The fact that stories you have told someone in confidence (or outright lies in some cases) have been making the rounds about you is not a pleasant thing to find out. It often feels like a breach of privacy and leaves one feeling betrayed – or at least that’s how I feel at the moment.

The fact that someone will use your story to progress their social standing amongst your peers and colleagues I feel is an abuse of trust and one that really leads you to question the person you are, the person you want to become, who you can trust, who you can’t and in essence who your real friends are. This has been this week’s revelation and the results have been surprising. People I’ve considered close friends, may not be as good a friends as I thought, and friendships I’ve neglected have come out to be the strongest friendships I’ve formed here. The realization of this means that in the future I will approach life here in a different light. I will no longer dismiss certain people because I’ve been told they’re using me as a bule, but get to know them face to face and then decide because in fact at the end of the day the people spreading these rumours are probably the ones I should be avoiding.

Lesson Learned Again!

Bulan Januari and the rest…….

Well January has flown by. It’s been a combination of fantastic, great, good, lumayan and terrible. Tensions have been running high as the stress and upset of people returning home has hit. The month started of great with an air of festivity; a bunch of anak ACICIS and new friends seeing in the New Year at the beach in Seminyak.  It was really something special standing on the beach in the warm tropical rain seeing in the New Year with friends from all over the world. Unfortunately, this also marked a bittersweet end. The end of ACICIS Semester 31 and the returning home of my fellow ACICIS students.  Everyone was going home either in January or February and it marked a change to the Jogja I know and love.

After returning home from Bali I said goodbye to several of my friends and then I myself went home for ten days (plus two nights staying at the airport and a quick night stop over in Bali). Going home was so strange. After six months abroad the whole experience was surreal and really strange. My ten days at home were far from relaxing and visiting Albany with to 80+ year olds one who was sick really didn’t help. I think I experienced reverse culture shock in a big way. Why there are definitely parts of Australia I miss (namely my friends and family) I feel that life in Australia is too sanitary and stagnant. I felt like no-one truly understood what I’d gone through and found that my friends and family were still in the same place they were 6 months ago. I don’t know exactly how to express how I felt in Australia and I’m sure it’s only because in the last 6 months I’ve done so much.

 Needless to say I was glad to get back to Jogja after 10 days of craziness and hectic-ness (not that it's been relaxing since). After a night stopover in Bali and picking up Koko who was coming to Jogja there was a sigh of relief when I finally touched down. As it was Steph and Katrina's last week in Jogja we decided to do what we hadn't done during the semester which turned out to be a lot. So after returning on Tuesday, it was a quick swap of clothes, repack of my backpack and straight off to Solo for the night. Solo, like the books says, is a sleepy version of Jogja. Being only an hour train ride away it had many of the same characteristics as Jogja but there was just something not quite right. Maybe it just seemed to quiet but I've definately become a Jogja Snob. We went to Kraton, the Antique Market and to the mall (because it was raining) to watch a movie - some crazy Indonesian horror movie about who knows what :(. This was all fine but nothing to special, though we did manage to find some nice vegetarian food at Warung Baru. 

The next day was another jam packed day of sightseeing as we headed to Gunung Lawu and to Candi Ceto and Candi Sukuh (some Hindu temples near the mountain). We then headed to a regional tourist haunt, Sarangan, on the advise from our driver, where we got accosted by hawkers trying to sell their wares to us bules. As foreigners living in Indonesia this is a regular annoyance we’ve become accustomed to. Next it was to the UNESCO Museum where the Java Man was found. This museum although UNESCO listed wasn’t particularly well curated and due to extensive renovations we only could see two displace rooms and only replicas of relics found. At five we took the train back to Jogja, went home and showered and then headed to Coffee Break to plan our assault on Dieng Plateau the next day.

Getting up at 5.15 the next day was a struggle; after three particularly early mornings dragging myself out of bed was the last thing I wanted to do. We then drove the particularly windy roads to Wonosobo where we ate Mie Ongklok, the areas specialty dish. We then continued on our path to Dieng Plateau – up the mountains and through the beautiful scenery. Dieng Plateau is amazing although due to the kawah sikidang (hot sulfur crater) the smell is rather pungent. Our first stop at Dieng Plateau was Arjuna Temple Complex, where we got accosted by a middle school for about a million photos (sometimes I hate being white). The temples were interesting to look at but in the end nothing particularly special. I think being hounded by a bunch of middle school girls, followed by their teachers and then the school girls again put a damper on our spirits. Next it was to the pungent kawah sikidang – it stunk so much but it was worth seeing. The hot bubbling sulfur in the crater makes you appreciate nature so much more. The fact that nature can produce such things is amazing and makes you realise that humans really are only a small fraction of what exists in nature. We followed this by a trip to the beautiful Telaga Pengilon.  By this point we were all a bit exhausted, the weather was getting worse so we decide it was time to pull the pin and go home.

We started the three hour drive home which was hampered only by the hour long traffic jam at a village that had been destroyed by cold lava at the base of Gunung Merapi. This sight has now become a tourist sight which seems rather insensitive as many of the people here have lost their houses, businesses and thus their livelihoods. Boulders taller than me and wider than my height had been swept down the mountain in a mud-slide wiping out anything in its path. It’s rather unimaginable and there we were right in the middle of it.
After getting back, mandi and having a bit of a rest we headed off to Coffee Break to watch Katrina, Yasmin and the rest of the Jogaroos perform and promote their album they recorded a few months ago. After hearing the recorded versions of the songs and several live renditions where equipment has gone wrong (microphones not working, not being turned on loud enough or the guitar being too loud) it was fantastic to finally see a performance where everyone could be heard and that sounded fantastic. Katrina’s sometimes excessive commentary (you know I love you Kat) added more festivity to the occasion. I called it fairly early that night as I was fairly tired and went home to sleep as we were taking Koko to Prambanan the following day.

The elusive Prambanan (elusive in the sense I’ve been in Jogja for over 6 months now and every time I’ve had the time to go there something else has come up) happened on the Friday before Katrina and Steph left. As Katrina has been there 3 times already she provided us her free tour guide service and guided us through these ancient Hindu temples. They truly are amazing pieces of architecture and it’s unfortunate that every time there’s a big earthquake in Jogja (which happens fairly often) Prambanan is damaged. Having some background on the building it was great to finally explore these temples and see why they have become a UNESCO listed sight.

After Prambanan we went to Ratu Boko, the ruins of another temple area about a 15 minute complementary car ride away. Whilst the landscape was certainly beautiful here, we were all so tired and hungry it would have been best to leave it for another day. So we jumped on a bus back to Amplaz then took a taxi to Pondok Cabe and enjoyed a deliciously spicy vegetarian lunch. YUM! We then continued down to Malioboro, back to Katrina’s kos and then back down south to ViaVia where we were meant to have dinner (it was a bit of a disaster with too many people coming but it all worked out in the end J). It marked the end of Steph and Katrina’s 6 month journey in Indonesia and I already miss them terribly after less than a week.

The adventures we shared, the good times and the bad, the highs and the lows and Merapi we will all always remember. It’s been a pleasure getting to know you.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Destroyed by Merapi

These are some pictures of a town completely destroyed in the aftermath of Merapi's devastating eruption. The town was completely engulfed when a landslide, caused by rain, brought cold lava down the mountain (and rocks, sand and boulders along with it).

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Saturday, February 5, 2011

Saying Goodbye

Saying goodbye is the hardest part of a semester abroad. You don't just make friends but you make a worldwide family. Everything you do, every challenge you face, you face it together. Yesterday I had to say goodbye to Katrina and Steph and it's one of the hardest things I've had to do. It was like losing my sisters and my best friends all rolled into one. So far I've managed to avoid the goodbye scene due to a fortunately/ unfortunately??? timed trip to Australia. I missed saying goodbye to Timmy, Matty and Joel so tears had been avoided but yesterday the waterworks started as I mourn the departure of my friends and new found family.

Goodbye to everyone who made ACICIS Semester 31 so special, to my friends in Europe, Australia and in various parts of Australia thanks for the lifetime of memories. I love you and miss you all already.

Semoga sukses
Selamat Jalan
xx

Also, Katrina remember Pagaralam sisters for life :)
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Saturday, January 15, 2011

It's Time to Say Goodbye


Well it’s at the part of semester/ the six months that I’ve been dreading, saying goodbye to my Jogja family. It wasn’t until a few days ago when the first of my close friends left (there has been others that have left but it’s been a bit of a blur/ I was away from Jogja) that I actually realized the impact this would have on me. Ok I’ve known since the beginning people would leave but now it’s a reality I’m afraid.

Coming to Jogja it was all about branching out of my comfort zone, finding new friends and embracing a new society. Now it’s about self-preservation and comfort and my friends have provided a large part of that this semester. So now I’m beginning to feel a little lost and trying to figure out my next move. I’m so settled and so content with life here and it’s now going to change completely again – although I’m sure this is not for the worse.

People have left on holidays all over the archipelago (Timmy and his brother to Sulawesi, Sam, Kat and Steph to Kalimantan, Joel to Jakarta, and Soph, Jo, and Matt to Pacitan) and returned home to places all over the world, making Jogja a fairly lonely town. The friends that I've still got left here are all busy at the moment with work and family commitments leaving me pondering on my own. I'm at the point where I'm really looking forward to going home for a few weeks. 

I'm beginning to realise how much I miss all my friends in Australia and I'm definately looking forward to seeing them again. I'm also really looking forward to the new semester starting and moving into a new kos. I feel like something needs to change.With no-one here and not being able to work (like I'd normally do on long holidays) and not having the funds to travel I feel a bit stuck.

O well, this week will fly and i'll be in Australia on Friday!!!! I think i'll spend the week doing lonely planet walking tours and just exploring a little more of Jogja.

GOODBYE ALL THOSE FRIENDS DEPARTING/ALREADY DEPARTED , WELCOME BACK TO THOSE RETURNING AND GOODLUCK TO ALL

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Bali – Isle of the Gods or Tourist Sellout


The last time I went to Bali it has been a disappointment, and this time I was apprehensive from the beginning. I was glad that my family was coming over to spend Christmas with me but I was aware that Bali had become expensive and a bit (well a lot) of a tourist trap. Maybe it is from my time living in Jogja but I just don’t enjoy Bali anymore. It just doesn’t have an authentic Indonesian feel to it; rather it seems to have become a centre for tourists and vendors to prosper and ignore traditional culture and values. Although I am sure this is not true for all of Bali (my experience of Katrina’s 21st taught me this) I can’t help but be saddened by the depreciation of traditional Balinese culture to make way for nightclubs, pubs, restaurants and shops all to cater for the tourism market. Whilst, signs of traditional culture remain – offerings for the gods, traditional costumes, and food being some examples – much of it now seems to be more to create a façade of traditional culture rather than being true beliefs.

I’ve been in Bali for over a week now with family and friends and I’ve been astounded by how materialistic and commercialized Bali has become. Even though I still have a soft spot for the Isle of the Gods, after all Bali is in WA’s backyard, to me it has become an over-priced tourist haunt, the likes of which can be found throughout Australia. People no longer come to Bali to experience the culture and the unique-ness of Bali (or if they do they’ll leave sorely disappointed) but to experience the comforts of home in resort style living. The prices are no longer cheap but comparable to those at home in Australia and the service and food is often quite average. It has become difficult to find authentic Balinese or Indonesian food at a reasonable price and that which exists tends to be substandard and ridiculously priced. I may sound obnoxious or like a snob right now but I just don’t like the direction in which Bali is heading and believe if tourism continues to override traditional cultural values tourists will grow pessimistic and the tourism industry here will suffer further loss. Granted people still love to visit Bali but there are places world-wide that cater to people at cheaper prices and the uniqueness of Bali is becoming a thing of the past.

That is not to say I haven’t enjoyed my holiday here and enjoyed indulging a bit. It’s been a treat to eat some delicious and nutritious gourmet food after 6 months of Indonesian food or unik adaptations of western food (usually involving cheese and/or chocolate). It’s also been great to spend some quality time with family and friends. Highlights of being here have dining at the hippy-tastic Bali Buddha in Ubud, with its spirulina, maca and wheatgrass (yum!), raw foods and vegetarian delights (as good and as flavorsome as food in Australia), and enjoying good Italian coffee, the likes of which aren’t easily found in Jogja. Introducing Ina to my family and having my parents and brother accept her as another family member is something I will also always treasure (Ina has become like a  sister to me, it’s only fitting my parents see her as a daughter and my brother sees her as a sister to). Spending New Year’s Eve on Seminyak Beach and seeing in 2011 with my Jogja family (or most of them) and new friends also has become a highlight of my Bali trip.

The beach has also been something I’ve treasured on this trip. The ability to walk to the beach and jump in the ocean is something I definitely miss from home and something I find lacking in Jogja (the nearest beaches are about 2 hours away from Jogja and not that fantastic – although fantastic times have been had). Bali beaches do remain truly amazing and through the masses of tourists, beach-side resorts and other tourist ventures you capture rare glimpses of what Bali must have been like years ago. The sheer joy of watching Balinese families wading around in the water on the weekends, old couples bathing whilst holding umbrellas and children running around on the beach is something special and shows why people choose to visit Bali.

Unfortunately, tourism has come at a price and that is the corruption of local culture to pave the path for tourism. I can honestly say that this time around Bali has been a bit of a disappointment. The food is over-priced and authentic Indonesian or Balinese food is little and far between. In areas such as Sanur, where I’ve been staying, Balinese culture is not apparent on a daily basis instead it’s replaced with commercialization and materialism. Vendors have become greedy asking exorbitant for lackluster and sub-standard products. Jet-skis and speedboats pollute the ocean and rubbish is scattered all over the beaches, saddening me furthers.

Whilst this trip to Bali has been fun and I am greatful to have spent time with my family and friends I am ready to go back to Jogja and explore more of Indonesia, and hopefully find places just as great as Bali where traditional culture remains in-tact and tourists haven’t exploited the land and people to the extent that materialism and superficial wealth are placed before tradition and believes.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all. Have a brilliant 2011 and all the best for the future.

Semoga Sukses
Alex
xoxox
Renaissance Museum in Ubud


The Bird Woman

The somewhat overgrown Ubud Botanical Gardens

Joey - what more do I say?

Ina and me and good Italian coffee makes three

Beaching it in Sanur

Ina and I being ever so slightly inappropriate

My Family